Surfer at a beach near Diamond Head, Hawaii
Date1890s
Object number00000801
NamePhotograph
MediumBlack and white photographic print on paper - albumen print.
DimensionsOverall: 176 x 228 mm
ClassificationsPhotographs
Credit LineANMM Collection
Purchased with USA Bicentennial Gift funds
DescriptionA black and white photograph depicting a Hawaiian surfer holding an alia, a traditional wooden surfboard, standing on a beach in Hawaii with Diamond Head in the background.
HistorySurfing is synonymous with Hawaii. Its history, documented by Europeans for hundreds of years, likely extends to thousands of years. As it required little equipment, the pastime was available to all members of Hawaiian society with the differences being in the style of boards the riders used.
Originally called 'papa he’e nalu' (wave-sliding board) three style of boards evolved in Hawaii. The most common, the alia, is pictured in this photograph. Wooden, the alia, was carved with a round nose and squared-off tail with no fins. It was widely popular as they were quick to make and required no religious ceremonies in their construction.
The olo was the board crafted and reserved only for Hawaiian royalty who also took part in surfing. These boards were longer, wider and heavier than any other. Due to this increased size and weight, they did not ride the waves like the smaller boards but rather more like a canoe favouring balance and stability over versatility. Olo's had a highly polished finish and were imbued with religion from the sourcing of the wood through the creation process with final prayers being said on its first use.
Finally, the paipo was the smallest board that required the least effort to craft. Predominantly ridden by children these boards were shaped like the bigger alia style.SignificanceSurfing is an ancient pastime in Hawaii with strong cultural associations and an activity able to be enjoyed by all ages, sexes and classes.
c 1949
